San Francisco: A gourmet’s delight
by Karen Harrison
I’m sure most people return home from a holiday with a memento – a souvenir of a special landmark, an example of a local craftsman or artist. After a recent few days in San Francisco, there was only one logical keepsake – a compendium of menus and recipes garnered from an array of area restaurants.
The city boasts over 3,300 restaurants, offering virtually every regional, ethnic and style of dining you can imagine. Given the temperate climate, proximity to the wine regions of both Napa and Sonoma, not to mention the abundant fresh ingredients all originating from California, even the most unassuming family-run restaurant can offer delicious meals at very agreeable prices. Our brief stay provided three especially memorable repasts.
After checking in to the excellent Marriott on Fourth Avenue, we were whisked by cab to the SoMa (South of Market Street) waterfront area, stunningly redeveloped with the SBC Ball Park (home of the San Francisco Giants) as its centerpiece. Directly across the street from the park is Momo’s San Francisco Grill (760 2nd Street). While it must certainly be a hot spot on a game day, the late December evening was delightfully low-key. Surrounded by warm wood paneling in the Craftsman style, we feasted on grilled salmon, Caesar salads, ravioli, short ribs – eight of us from Ottawa, Berkeley and Atlanta each very satisfied with delicious food, beautifully presented by attentive servers.
Of course, San Francisco has long been famous for its historic, vibrant Chinatown. We consulted both guidebooks and local residents for advice about restaurants in this neighbourhood – too many to count. We elected to try the House of Nanking (919 Kearny, pronounce ‘Carney” by the locals). Having been warned about line-ups, we ventured out before five for an early supper, and were seated immediately in the midst of a bustling family-style eatery – the very opposite of Momo’s elegant setting, but delightful in the obvious exuberance of both staff and diners.
But be forewarned, if you ask for guidance about the menu, the server will try to decide you meal – “I will bring you something good!” We managed to get enough words in edgewise to order a little of the familiar – beef and broccoli, though a little more spicy than the Ottawa norm – and Sesame chicken Nanking style, a scrumptious platter of tender lightly breaded chicken in a light sweet and sour sauce with sliced yams and squash. This dining experience is all about efficiency – fast service, piping hot platters, and no lingering over coffee or tea. When we left, after about an hour, the line-up outside numbered 15 or 20. Despite the atmosphere of organized chaos, we would return in a minute.
Lastly, we opted to experience the distinctive neighbourhood of North Beach, fondly known as Little Italy. Once again, we followed the advice of locals and went to Firenze By Night (1429 Stockton, near Columbus). This award-winning restaurant is totally unpretentious. The décor is understated, softly lit, perfect for conversation over dinner. It really does seem to be all about the food. That night, our party of two families numbered ten, and so we were able to enjoy a number of different items from the menu. The gnocchi is described as ‘award-winning’ – and that was heartily affirmed. My cannelloni biagio, stuffed with prosciutto and chicken, melted in my mouth. The fettuccine pesto was a triumph – too good to share! All this, and no entree was over twenty dollars.
Of course, there are many wonderful sights in San Francisco – the cable cars, the architecture, the Golden Gate, the opera house, Fisherman’s Wharf. Even Alcatraz is worth seeing, in a peculiar way. Any pictures or movie scenes you may have seen of the hills do not begin to do justice to the actual steep grades, which seem to rise up before your eyes at every turn. My best advice is, eat to your heart’s content, because you will most certainly walk it all off before you head back home.
