A Retreat in the Townships
by Karen Harrison
The Weather Channel reports virtually every part of the country has suffered through a winter with more than the usual challenges — a reminder, as if we needed one, that to live here, we have to meet the weather at least half way.
To that end, more and more people are planning vacations that revolve around outdoor activity. A recent visit to Quebec's Eastern Townships revealed a wealth of holiday possibilities to suit any season, and any level of fitness.
Steeped in history, the Townships (or L'Estrie, as the area is often called) lie east of Montreal and just north of the American border, easily reached along Route 10. The drive — only an hour from Montreal — is a pleasant one, criss-crossing small rivers and the centuries-old seigneury style land grants. After crossing the North Yamaska River, the flat terrain soon gives way to rolling and wooded hills, and eventually the mountains with their unmistakable carved ski trails.
Our destination is Mont Orford and the nearby town of Magog. With an elevation of 2800 feet (850 m) and a vertical drop of 1772 feet (540 m), the mountain, linked by trails and lifts with Mont Giroux and Mont Alfred-
Desrochers, offers 56 trails from easy to the dreaded double black diamond runs. You'll find lessons, equipment rentals and broad areas for snowboarding, but two things at Mont Orford stand out: a gondola lift to whisk you to the summit — without any wind on your face — and glade skiing, special trails carefully laid out through the woods.
The experience of gliding on your skis surrounded by the quiet of the forest is enough to convince you that winter just may be the best time of the year. But if summer is more to your liking, the mountain will not disappoint. Situated within a provincial park, Mont Orford is ideal for camping, canoeing, hiking and climbing. Several major cycling trails cut through the park, with one leading to a tour of wineries in the region. And, of course, there is golfing.
Five minutes away is Magog, a friendly town with a wide range of accommodations, shopping and other activities. Magog is situated at the northern tip of Lake Memphremagog, a popular vacation spot since the mid-19th century — summer sports abound, with a beach, sailing, and cruises available. If breaking a sweat is not your idea of a holiday, rue Principale offers a colourful variety of shops and services. At La Chantournelle, proprietors Danielle and Jacques Theoret have carefully selected items such as table linens from Provence and stoneware from England, along with local pottery and woodcarvings.
For a complete change of pace, beau et fou is a boutique filled with crafts from Nepal and Indonesia chosen by owners Philip Ledoux and Lucie Bessette on their annual buying trips. A few steps from the main street up rue Des Pins is La Maison des Trouvailles, where collectors' tastes run more to Victorian or Rococo.
There are all types of accommodation in Magog. Many bed and breakfast spots are a mere block from the rue Principale, including the excellent La belle Victorienne. If you prefer a small hotel, L'Auberge du Grand Lac is just steps from the shopping. Condominiums are numerous and available for short or long-term stays. There are also large hotels near the mountain, such as Manoir des Sables, which boasts its own golf course.
As for dining, locals praise Chez Benito for fine Italian food and La Memphre, which also has a microbrewery.
The centre of the town boasts a lovely waterfront park and part of the heavily traveled bike trail. Remarkably, the trail is flooded during the winter, creating a 2.5 kilometre skating trail the length of the park! There is so much more to describe — including a trolley that shuttles skiers between Mont Orford and Magog, and, yes, a sushi bar on rue Principale — but I'll let you explore. This is indeed a destination to suit any season.
Karen Harrison is CGE's circulation manager and a sometimes—reluctant participant of winter sports. For further information, visit www.tourisme_memphremagog.com; for B&Bs, see www.bellevic.com and www.montorford.com.
