No Parka Required:
Retreats in Portugal and Georgia
by Karen Harrison
Many of us complained about this summer's heat wave, knowing all the while we would be wishing it was back come January. For those who prefer temperate to hot, as I do, here are two winter getaway options that can compete with the sun and sand of Caribbean destinations, where the mercury is perfect in February or March when winter begins to feel too long.
More and more Canadians seeking respite from the cold are discovering Portugal. Even for short seven- to ten-day breaks squeezed into a busy work schedule, it offers a tantalizing blend of the old and new worlds. The climate has been compared to that of California, with the Gulf Stream affecting both the lush, varied vegetation and the wonderful and delicious abundance of fish. For winter evenings, a sweater or light jacket is sometimes needed.
The capital city, Lisbon, offers the usual mix of historic sites and museums, shopping and dining. Of particular interest is the Alfama district, an ancient neighbourhood dating back to the 5th Century. Whether you browse in a modern mall, boutique or open-air market, there are plenty of eye-catching ceramics, textiles and wonderful wines. There is nightlife to suit any temperament, but try to make time for a performance of the distinctive Portuguese song tradition known as Fado.
And if you just want to relax in one place, there are great beaches near Lisbon in the Costa do Sol Estoril and Cascais.
In Oporto, north of Lisbon, you can take advantage of tasting tours of the wine cellars scattered across picturesque countryside. For accommodation, look into the network of government–owned tourist inns called ‘pousadas’. While the quality can be classified as moderate, the locations are intriguing, including former castles, palaces and convents.
Two-and-a-half-hours’ drive to the south is the renowned Algarve, extending from the westernmost point of Continental Europe, Cape Saint Vincent, to the Spanish border. This area boasts 150 kilometres of beaches, with opportunities for deep-sea fishing, sailing or long thoughtful walks. With rugged cliffs and winding paths, more serious hiking is a popular activity. Accommodations run the gamut from five star American hotels to B&Bs to short or long stay apartments – a rate to meet any budget.
Portugal can provide a sunny, parka-free winter break to match any pace.
For something closer to home – approximately 2000 kilmetres from Eastern Canada – consider the Golden Isles of Georgia. Gracing the extreme southern end of the state, this chain of barrier islands has been spared the ravages of recent hurricane seasons. Linked by causeway to Brunswick on the mainland, Jekyll Island and St. Simon’s Island are just over an hour’s drive from either Savannah or Jacksonville.
Once the exclusive vacation preserve of Rockefellers, Vanderbilts, Pulitzers and their ilk,
Jekyll Island is perhaps best known today for championship calibre golf courses. The Jekyll Island Club Hotel, no longer private, lies in the heart of the Historic District, and offers very competitive package rates for golfers from January to March. For non-golfers, activities abound on Jekyll Island, ranging from tennis to charter fishing.
St. Simon’s Island offers a similar variety of activities, as well as a number of historic sites. The St. Simon’s Lighthouse has been in operation for 130 years, and it is the focal point of the island’s history as told in the Lighthouse trilogy of novels by Eugenia Price.
These islands are quiet destinations, offering everything from familiar hotel names to B&Bs to campgrounds. The scenery is beautiful. Besides the beaches, there are countless live oaks (so called because their leaves remain green year round) draped with Spanish moss, and a vast, protected salt-water marsh, the Marshes of Glynn. Several smaller islands, adjacent to the major ones, are wildlife sanctuaries. Tours can be arranged, and the bird watching and wildlife sightings are abundant throughout the region.
Whether you want to golf where Davis Love III learned to chip and putt, cycle from an historic lighthouse to the woods and back to the beach, or curl up with a good book within earshot of gently rolling surf, the Golden Isles of Georgia offer a serene refuge from winter’s stresses and strains.
