The Layers of Paris
by Gérald Simoneau
At 42 Léon-Frot Street, not far from the Place de la Bastille, stands a bistro much like many others in Paris. But as you arrive, something seems vaguely out of kilter. Not a square centimetre of sod can be seen in the area, yet knobbed and twisted vines climb the outer wall of this bistro, and wend their way onto the lean-to roof in search of sunlight.
This is Jacques Mélac’s Bistro. From the deep underground basement of this modest establishment grows a vine stock brought here almost 30 years ago from the distant Pyrenees region, where Papa Mélac owns a vineyard. By mid-summer the roof is overflowing with grapes, and come harvest time the owner collects enough juice to make a precious 20 bottles of wine. A bistro in a vineyard or a vineyard in a bistro?
Paris abounds in small gems. It’s a city ready to be discovered and rediscovered, layer after layer, visit after visit.
Not that you would want to ignore the top attractions altogether – Notre Dame Cathedral has just undergone a major facelift and glitters magnificently these days. But it’s the odd points of interest that give Paris its depth and richness.
Begin in Notre Dame square, at Point Zéro. Sealed in stone on the ground some 20 metres from the church is a simple bronze medallion, which may be difficult to locate amidst the throngs of tourists. For centuries Notre Dame has been considered the centre point of what was once the great kingdom of France. Witness an old print in the nearby Notre Dame Museum depicting the cathedral in the middle of concentric circles that mark distances to other European capitals. To this day, it’s from this milestone, the Point Zéro des routes de France, that all distances are measured between Paris and other cities in France, Europe and around the world.
On the same square stands the Hôtel-Dieu, Paris’s main hospital. Its magnificent inner court, largely undiscovered because of the discreet entrance, provides a welcome retreat from the crowds in the square. The well-manicured garden, with its soothing water fountain, is set amidst a series of tall, neo-Florentine arches too numerous to count. In this peaceful haven, energies are quickly replenished.
If your 11-year-old is looking a little bored after a museum visit, arrange to walk by 8 rue des Halles, near Châtelet. In the store window of the Maison Aurouze, pest exterminator extraordinaire, you will see, stuffed and hanging from large spring traps, several huge sewer rats captured 80 years ago in the old Les Halles marketplace. For the more gentle souls, a visit to the Musée de la Poupée might be in order—there are over 500 dolls in this collection, all made in France, some dating as far back as 1800.
Keep an eye out for covered passageways. There are dozens and dozens throughout Paris. Constructed mostly in the 1820s and 1840s, they were an immediate success, especially with the ladies, whose long gowns were ill suited for the poorly paved and often muddy streets of the day. Many have glass roofs, and at mid-day the sun beams down on often intricate mosaic floor patterns. Two of the finer specimens, classified national monuments, can be found just behind the Palais Royal: the Galerie Vivienne and the Galerie Colbert (these two shunned the term ‘passage’).
Visitors to Paris should always build time into their itineraries for meandering. It was quite by accident that I came across a set of five rectangular granite slabs at the corner of Roquette and Croix-Faubin streets – they served as the base for a guillotine, the site of public beheadings between 1851 and 1899. In the same way, I discovered the oldest house in Paris (rue de Montmorency), the narrowest one (Quai Voltaire), the former studios of Picasso and several other artists, and the Mélac Bistro.
If you go..
To the executive who travels on business, staying at a hotel for a vacation is somewhat akin to the proverbial busman’s holiday. There is another solution – renting an apartment. Forget the smallish hotel rooms too often found in Europe, and dare to live life as a Parisian. Apartments are generally cheaper than hotel rooms, more spacious and comfortable, and provide the added convenience of a kitchen. What’s more, within a day or two, the tourist in you will start to fade away and you’ll begin to feel like a native. Rentals can be found on the internet, but be careful to avoid go-between operators and opt instead for a rental agency that provides full management services. Some agencies will meet you at the airport and drive you directly to your apartment.
If you are in Paris in the fall, by all means drop in on Jacques Mélac. And ask him when he plans to harvest his grapes. Picking time provides the opportunity for a great party on Léon-Frot Street, and everyone is welcome.
Gérald Simoneau is a communications and marketing consultant. Recently retired from the federal public service, he shares his time between Ottawa and Paris (gsimoneau@rogers.com).
