An Island Escape
by Karen Harrison
After visits to British Columbia many friends have marveled about the city where the mountains meet the sea but expressed regret at having “gotten only as far as Vancouver.” I am convinced that, if one could extend a business trip or holiday by just a few more days, crossing the Georgia Strait to Vancouver Island is more than worth it.
There is an impressive expanse of beach and ocean of the western shore of the island. But for a two or three day getaway, I’ll happily make the case for the eastern coast.
The BC ferry service operates two routes from Vancouver to Nanaimo. Horseshoe Bay is by far the most scenic harbour I’ve seen (sorry, Halifax) and it is a breathtaking drive from downtown Vancouver via the Lions Gate Bridge. You can rent a car and drive it onto the ferry or one of several rental agencies will meet you at Departure Bay when you dock.
The ferry crossing takes under two hours, meandering past several islands, including Saltspring, and the sight of small island communities and eye-popping west coast architecture, along with sailboats, canoes and kayaks, makes for a very pleasant ride.
In Nanaimo, the Boat Basin has been impressively redeveloped. Countless pleasure craft are moored here, and overlooking all the comings and goings is the Harbourside Walkway, or Seawall Walk. At boat level, make a bee-line to Troller’s for an excellent serving of fish and chips. To walk off lunch, climb the steps to the upper level and enjoy the shops. It is worth venturing further up the sloping side streets to check out the Copper Moon Gallery for exquisite arts and crafts by west coast First Nations.
While the charms of Nanaimo resemble those of many other small cities, it is only an hour’s drive to something absolutely unique – Cathedral Grove. MacMillan Park, the site of Cathedral Grove, lies northwest of Nanaimo on Highway 4. The drive along the coast passes Parksville and Qualicum Beach, the main towns of what is known as Oceanside, or the Canadian Riviera. The temperate climate and lush gardens are proving irresistible to many Canadians who used to winter in Florida or Arizona. In fact, year-round retirement communities are thriving here.
Cathedral Grove is old-growth forest, with massive cedars and Douglas firs ranging up to 500 and 800 years old. An interpretive trail system has been gently laid out through the forest, and carefully placed signs explain some of the unique sights – the oldest tree, huge bracket fungi, the massive exposed root system of a cedar blown down by gale-force winds. After thoughtfully walking the trails, and taking many now-treasured photos, we were amazed to realize that almost two hours had passed. We couldn’t help but think about the remarkable history of the place, long known by First Nations clans – and tried to fathom our own place in the world while surrounded by such natural grandeur. It is unforgettable. Cathedral Grove has been designated by UNESCO as part of the Mt. Arrowsmith Biosphere Reserve.
The route back to Nanaimo intersects with Coombs, a small village that boasts the Old Country Market, often known as ‘Goats on the Roof’. The unique grass-covered roof supports a family of goats, but don’t let that discourage you from enjoying what’s inside – an endless variety of foodstuffs, fresh and imported, including fish, cheese, baked goods, and packaged food from all over the world. There are also colourful toys and gifts, and the café served seafood quiche to rival any city bistro.
Our last stop was Rathtrevor Beach on the southern edge of Parksville. The tide was out, and the walk to the water’s edge was bracing. There are several lovely lodges and resorts, and it was clear that a longer stay was something to plan for someday.
Before departing Nanaimo, it is worth returning to the Harbourside Walk and the Lighthouse Bistro and Pub. The smoked salmon chowder is divine! As many have discovered, if you get to Vancouver – keep going.
Karen Harrison writes travel articles for CGE.
